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DeeJay Bui

featured series · no. 01

Le Smoking, Revisited

A menswear study in black wool and borrowed confidence. One tuxedo, two days, and the argument that tailoring is just architecture you can dance in.

Photography
DeeJay Bui
Styling
PLACEHOLDER Stylist
Grooming
PLACEHOLDER Groomer
Talent
PLACEHOLDER Model
Location
Studio B, Oakland

PLACEHOLDER COPY: In 1966 the tuxedo stopped being a uniform and became a question. This shoot picks the question back up. We built the set around a single hard light, the kind that makes wool look like poured concrete, and asked the tailoring to do the talking.

PLACEHOLDER: full-length tuxedo silhouette against seamless
03ALe Smoking, Revisited · 03A
Tailoring is architecture you can dance in.
PLACEHOLDER: detail of satin lapel in raking light
07ALe Smoking, Revisited · 07A
PLACEHOLDER: seated pose, undone bowtie, direct gaze
11ALe Smoking, Revisited · 11A

PLACEHOLDER COPY: Halfway through day one we abandoned the shot list. The lapel detail that opens this story was an accident, caught while the stylist re-pinned a seam. The best frames usually happen while everyone thinks the camera is down.

PLACEHOLDER: motion blur walking frame, jacket flaring
15ALe Smoking, Revisited · 15A
The best frames happen while everyone thinks the camera is down.
PLACEHOLDER: hands adjusting cufflinks, shallow depth
19ALe Smoking, Revisited · 19A
PLACEHOLDER: profile with cigarette-holder prop, hard shadow
22ALe Smoking, Revisited · 22A

PLACEHOLDER COPY: We closed with the jacket off and the shoulders honest. A tuxedo, it turns out, photographs best when it is halfway to being taken seriously. Frame 31A, the empty chair, was the last exposure of the day and the first one I printed.

PLACEHOLDER: jacket off, slung over shoulder, exit frame
27ALe Smoking, Revisited · 27A
PLACEHOLDER: empty set with the tuxedo on a chair, end of day
31ALe Smoking, Revisited · 31A

the contact sheet

every frame, even the honest ones

portra 400 · db 2026 · Le Smoking, Revisited

PLACEHOLDER: full-length tuxedo silhouette against seamless
03A
PLACEHOLDER: detail of satin lapel in raking light
07Athe pick
PLACEHOLDER: seated pose, undone bowtie, direct gaze
11A
PLACEHOLDER: motion blur walking frame, jacket flaring
15A
PLACEHOLDER: hands adjusting cufflinks, shallow depth
19A
PLACEHOLDER: profile with cigarette-holder prop, hard shadow
22A
PLACEHOLDER: jacket off, slung over shoulder, exit frame
27A
PLACEHOLDER: empty set with the tuxedo on a chair, end of day
31A